And finally, after everything is cleaned and primed, I'm
painting. I chose Benjamin Moore Alkyd Enamel. Its fairly
expensive- about $40/gallon at Ace Hardware, but its quite good paint,
and dries smooth
even when painting by brush- which I had to do, lacking a spray
booth. I also like the BM primer a lot more than Kilz. It
seems to attain a harder finish, though it takes lots longer to dry.
It took about a
month to do all the little bits and pieces. For one thing, the BM
Alkyd paint takes a while to dry, and I put two coats on
everything. However, it came out well;
The paper towels stuck in the gearbox are to soak up the oil so it
won't drip onto the stand. Since I used TSP on the gearbox, there
was a fair bit of wet, half-dissolved crud still up inside which took a
little while to be displaced with fresh oil. I'm
just not dedicated enough to take apart the gearbox itself.
September 2004- OK, so I'm feeling guilty about not cleaning the
gearbox, so sometime this fall I'll take it to bits and give it a
Here is the headstock & tailstock- quite an improvement there.
Note to self; next time I paint something, also mask the oilers.
At least I only painted them with primer and it scrapes off without too
All the little bits came out well. I went ahead and stripped and
painted the switch- it had already been painted that horrible green
Here's the apron after using Citristrip, just before priming and
painting- not the best stripping job in the world, but it worked well
enough. Getting all the dissolved paint off was a real
drag. Next time I'd try a different approach. I couldn't
dislodge the cross pin in the carriage handwheel without doing bad
things, so it didn't get electrolized- but I did clean it up a bit with
Now that I've worked on a lathe a bit, I would have cleaned the
carriage by removing the cross-feed and detaching the apron from the
saddle. The apron is held on by screws- no magic involved, and
the cross-feed assembly is easy to unscrew once the apron is